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Young Ninja Group (ages 3-5)

Public·6 members

Vag Com (vcds) 908.2 En __EXCLUSIVE__ Full Fr

By downloading this software, you acknowledge that this Program is provided "as is" and "with all faults, defects and errors" and that all use of the Program is at your own full risk. It has been extensively tested, but we cannot guarantee it will work correctly with every system in every car. We will make our best effort to fix any bugs and to enhance the program, but we specifically disclaim any liability for damage to your computer or your car, and we do not promise to have any particular enhancements available on any specific date.

Vag Com (vcds) 908.2 En Full Fr

Using a mirror, double check the notch and raised mark positions. Here is a video showing a closeup of the tensioner and a video of the belt. Click the play button (the triangle that points to the right) to view the video. The button to the right of "HQ" will switch the video to full screen. Remember, it's normal for the sprockets to rotate when you tighten the belt (thecam and pump are locked but their sprockets can move). The crankshaft sprocket (shown by the TDC mark on the flywheel) should not move. These videos also apply to the next few steps.

Caution: when the engine is running, makesure any bolts/tools/fingers are clear of all belts or radiator fans. Themoving belts or fan can easily rip off your hand or fingers if they get caughtin the belts or fan! See the TOS Agreement for the full legal disclaimer.

Slightly loosen the 3x 13mm injection pump sprocket bolts. Only loosenthem enough so that the sprocket can slide under their pressure - if you loosenthem fully, the injection pump may move independently of the sprocket due topressure from the belt and internal forces. A tip is to loosen them one ata time and then tighten it just barely with a ratchet. If you loosen themall too much, the sprocket is too free to move and timing may go from wayretarded to way advanced.

Now i've got the same problem as the original poster. Aircon works, but only intermittently, and prefers to put-out fully chilled air at temperatures below 20C. If outside temperature is above that then, at the full cold setting it outputs air at slip stream temperature for about 20 minutes running then switches to full cold.

I've concluded that its the temperature flap sticking when the dashboard gets hot in direct sunlight. Once the blower has been running some time, it seems to cool the passage ways down and the temperature valve then moves to the fully cold position. I think this problem occurs mainly on older cars because parts move permanently out-of-position through a repeated heat/cool cycles and the plastics lose some of their elasticity with age.

Clunknick, I'll try the full cold to full hot slowly trick tomorrow... Funny enough, as my car was parked in the staff car park today (which is in the shade), when I got into my car, the outside air temperature indicator displayed 22c and my A/C started first time, it stayed on all the way home, despite temperatures rising to 27c on the M3. The air was very cold, proof that there is plenty of gas left in the system to work. 350c69d7ab


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